Taormina sightseeing

On Wednesday the 23rd the weather looks uninviting when we wake up. Heavy grey clouds shroud the Etna and it’s raining. After breakfast we get our books and settle in one of the deep lobby sofas in front of glass doors facing the vulcano. But when we see a bit of blue sky, we head for a long cliffside staircase behind the castle above our hotel, which will take us directly down to the Corso. The sun is beginning to come out when we get up to the castle. We realize, because of the groups of swarthy men standing around in tuxes, that a wedding is about to take place. The women haven’t arrived yet, and, regretfully, we’re halfway down the winding path when enthusiastic applause from above announces the bride's arrival. I would have loved to see that scene.

We have the most stunning wide view in front of us – Taormina in all it’s glory, a mixture of little old clustered dwellings and luxurious hotels with fabulous swimming pools.

We’ve been hearing trilling birdsong from time to time – very like the sabiá at home in Gávea – and I recognize the bird as the blackbird so common throughout my Danish childhood. Then we reach the bottom of the stairs and enter the town center via a narrow alley.

Today we want to see the Teatro Greco, but first we stop for our first taste of a Granita de Caffè – delicious brown sludgy ice, if a bit sweet.

Then we join the many groups of tourists heading in the same direction. We stand in line for tickets behind a grim-faced Swiss man, who turns out to be leading a group of high-school students - he doesn't look amused and won't let us pass in front of him, even though he's holding a stack of student IDs in his hand. 

The spectacularly situated theatre - between the sea and the rocks, with the vivid Etna in the background

is still in use as a concert venue, like the the Teatro Greco in Syracuse. It's beautiful and strange, because you're very aware of the temporary seating, the huge snaking power cables and aluminium light towers in the middle of those dignified ruins. It must be spectacular to experience a performance there at night. As it is, it begins to rain hard on the open area, and we seek refuge in a little museum at the top, where we meet this soulful lady,

a Niobid - child of Amphion of Thebes and Niobe, who does not yet know Artemis and Apollo will shoot her and her siblings with their arrows, because her mother had committed hubris by boasting she had more children than their mother Leto had.  

On our way out I take this photo, my favorite. It's my first time traveling without a camera, only my new iPhone5, and I am quite pleased.

We go on through tiny streets overhung with flowers and oranges - the orange blossoms suffuse the air with the most wonderful scent

- until we reach the Giardini della Villa Comunale, a lovely shady park created by Lady Florence Trevelyan and given to Taormina in 1922. Again the blackbird is singing away as we admire the tropical vegetation and the fabulous views

We're beginning feel a little hungry and find a cozy pizza place, Mamma Rosa, where we share a pizza with artichokes - in spite of having seen them in the market we have yet to encounter them on a menu - and 2 large beers.

We then walk slowly through the town where shops are opening after their 12.30-4pm lunch break! and we meet little Tosca, chic in a quilted vest with fur trimming

When I have been into many shops and touched many things it's time to go home. Victor is nearby working out at a gym and will have dinner when he's done, whereas we'll go home and relax. We're still very achy after our long walk yesterday.